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Completed Writeup - Stereo Upgrade JKU Infinity Retaining OEM H/U

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Old 04-20-2012 | 02:53 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by imedic31

The tweeters get their own signal, but the resistor inline may just be there to reduce the power received in order to stop them from sounding like crap / being over driven. They are crap. By removing the resistor, your not going to get "more" out of them, they will likely just introduce distortion to your sound from being supplied with more than it's specified tolerance.

As for the inline crossover with aftermarket components, they are specifically tuned / designed to allow the tweeter to properly compliment the mids. Leaving it out and attaching it (stand alone) to the stock tweeter signal may very well work, but will most likely sound like crap.

Not to mention, you need to properly pair the resistance of the speakers to match that of the OEM system. (3 Ohm vs 4 Ohm, etc)
So then your suggesting to use the crossovers. Wouldn't I still just be trying to squeeze more out of an already poor signal?
Old 04-20-2012 | 09:28 AM
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Great write up thank you for taking the time on this.
Old 04-20-2012 | 11:48 AM
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As for the inline crossover with aftermarket components, they are specifically tuned / designed to allow the tweeter to properly compliment the mids. Leaving it out and attaching it (stand alone) to the stock tweeter signal may very well work, but will most likely sound like crap.
You could easily hook up the front "system" off only the leads for the front mids, placing the crossover behind the pod and running wire up to the tweeter directly. This would work well as long as the channels are not running a bandpass signal (I can't imagine why the factory would, as most midranges roll off well on their own). Some aftermarket separate systems with crossovers have a "bi-amp" capability where it would allow inputs from both an amp tweeter output and an amp front midbass output.

Bottom-line...there are a few easy ways to test to see if using a quality front set of separates works within the confines of the stock amp channel assignments. Obviously, the rear soundbar is artificially limited.

For the OP, in your testing....did you put an oscilloscope on the output of the Infinity amp to determine what sort of crossovers are applied to each channel?
Old 04-20-2012 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Henningfeld
Great write up thank you for taking the time on this.

Thanks for the Thanks!

To the other posters comments...
Yes, I did in fact use a multimeter to check the output coming from the amp. But... going to the extent of signal checking with oscilloscopes, and other very involved methods of working with the OEM amp.... is beyond the intent of my writeup. It also seems like a lot of work honestly, as there is no way to modify the output of the OEM amp. (unless adding a post amp processor, etc) Like I mentioned at the start, this is the way I did it. Other people can use the info as they see fit.

As for the crossover / inline to tweeter... you'll have to follow your own instinct. The point of buying aftermarket accessories / upgrades is to enhance the sound quality. Bottom line, hook it up, listen to it, remove it or keep it in. Your not going to get more from the stock signal then you are already getting. Hence the addition of aftermarket amps, etc. You'll have to use what works to appease your inner sound demon... lol
Old 04-21-2012 | 07:11 AM
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I have the same set up with the Alpines, i was very nervous how the tweeters would look. Thank you for your pics, i did mine last night, looks amazing sounds even better. Again, thanks for this post.
Old 04-21-2012 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rip_Em_801
I have the same set up with the Alpines, i was very nervous how the tweeters would look. Thank you for your pics, i did mine last night, looks amazing sounds even better. Again, thanks for this post.
No problem at all, glad it was helpful!!
Old 05-01-2012 | 06:59 PM
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I swapped the factory sub out for an Elemental Designs 8" (that was on clearance for $40). I also stuck 5 layers of dynamat inside (5x5 squares) to help deaden the plastic box. While not a perfect setup (the stock grille doesn't fit over and the eD sub doesn't match the stock pattern holes....6 vs 8 and I need to seal the old ones), it's a TREMENDOUS difference. The eD sub is a dual 2ohm voice coil design, perfectly match the stock driver.

I'll cut a trim ring to fill the difference in diameter and also see if I can make a nice JL Grille fit (it uses a flat base behind the driver with metal mesh insert over the top). Actually, the JL grille may well serve the purpose in "sealing" the enclosure properly (I've got some butyl rubber tape that will help).


Last edited by PGT; 05-01-2012 at 07:04 PM.
Old 05-01-2012 | 07:05 PM
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Let's see some pics. I'm looking to do the same thing.
Old 05-01-2012 | 07:14 PM
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edited the post for the pic. If the OP would like me to split this out, I'll happily delete my post and start anew. Just thought that this thread was as useful as any I've read in this subforum and this seems to be a recurring question as well; how to upgrade the stock setup whether in total or in pieces.
Old 05-01-2012 | 10:35 PM
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nice props for the elemental designs!!!!!!!!! Im gonna by dls components from them for my jeep as soon as i order ir in 2 weeks. I currently run an ed 12 and ed components in my bmw!



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