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Aux fuse box

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Old 07-20-2011, 10:54 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Freewill
Nice. Very clean! That's a great fuse box - I've used it in other rigs.
Originally Posted by nmwranglerx
Nice looking setup. Need to do something like this to help with all the add-ons.
Thanks It cleans things up alot, no more inline fuses

Last edited by Jhen; 07-20-2011 at 11:30 PM.
Old 07-20-2011, 11:28 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by xerofall
I understand the fuse panel, but what's the breaker for? That's what you have the two black battery cables hooked to, yes?
Originally Posted by dstock
Breaker cuts power to the fuse panel in case things go horribly wrong.
Nail on head


Originally Posted by xerofall
Is the breaker 100% required?
Required, I dont know? Recomended, for sure

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Old 07-21-2011, 05:02 AM
  #13  
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Required, I dont know? Recomended, for sure
Required? "Absolutely Yes". Would you feal comfortable removing the main breaker from your house?
Old 07-21-2011, 05:20 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by xerofall
Is the breaker 100% required?
Car fire is a quick way to get a new Jeep I suppose.
Old 07-21-2011, 06:45 AM
  #15  
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Looks really good and will help you power all the new mods as they come around
Old 07-21-2011, 06:27 PM
  #16  
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Okay, I'll do the breaker. Ordering it all from the net.
Old 01-29-2012, 05:23 PM
  #17  
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Looks great. I will be doing this setup with my jeep very soon, just got all the parts this weekend.
One question: do you need to run the negative side to a ground, or to the neg term of the battery ? Which is best?

Thanks
Ski
Old 01-31-2012, 07:14 PM
  #18  
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For those asking if the breaker is required...

I don't thinks so, as it's a short run. The lead from the battery to the c/b is unprotected, so it may as well go directly to the new fuse box.
There is no c/b or fuse in the lead to the TIPM, because it's so close to the power source.
If the box were mounted in the cab, or in the cargo compartment, then yes, a breaker would be required to protect the wire run to the box.
The important thing is, each circuit's wire run is protected by its own fuse.

Looking at the install, I wonder about access to the fuses in the TIPM. Looks like the cover would be difficult to open all the way.

Last edited by ronjenx; 01-31-2012 at 07:20 PM.
Old 01-31-2012, 07:17 PM
  #19  
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I had a Painless wiring fuse box and when i traded in my Sport for my JK i went with the Bluesea fuse box instead. I got the 6 fuse box instead of the 12, hopefully i will get it installed this weekend but its a very straight forward install.I talked to Jim at OTRATTW and he said an in-line fuse and 10 or 8 gauge wire from the positive to the Bluesea box and a 10 or 8 gauge wire out from the negative and you can run 12 gauge wires for all your accessories. I asked about where to ground the negative wire and he explained that the Can-bus in the JK is picky, some people have had success running it from the battery negative and others have not, he recommends grounding it to the chassis. With my Painless I grounded it to the chassis and had success that way so i will do it again . I will be mounting mine inside the cab some where near the factory amp or on the firewall, Ill post some pics when i get it installed.



I picked this one because it has the negative terminal built into it. If you go to OTRATTW website or give him a call, he has everything you need to get you going except for the wires.

Last edited by Sapper12b; 01-31-2012 at 07:32 PM.
Old 01-31-2012, 08:00 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Sapper12b
I had a Painless wiring fuse box and when i traded in my Sport for my JK i went with the Bluesea fuse box instead. I got the 6 fuse box instead of the 12, hopefully i will get it installed this weekend but its a very straight forward install.I talked to Jim at OTRATTW and he said an in-line fuse and 10 or 8 gauge wire from the positive to the Bluesea box and a 10 or 8 gauge wire out from the negative and you can run 12 gauge wires for all your accessories. I asked about where to ground the negative wire and he explained that the Can-bus in the JK is picky, some people have had success running it from the battery negative and others have not, he recommends grounding it to the chassis. With my Painless I grounded it to the chassis and had success that way so i will do it again . I will be mounting mine inside the cab some where near the factory amp or on the firewall, Ill post some pics when i get it installed.



I picked this one because it has the negative terminal built into it. If you go to OTRATTW website or give him a call, he has everything you need to get you going except for the wires.
I like the dedicated ground.

Last edited by ronjenx; 01-31-2012 at 08:18 PM.


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