Audio Components Recommendations Please.
11-27-2012, 03:57 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by JK-Ford
Thanks stockrubi. I have been considering just using a single amp as sudgested. I'm still a little worried that the sound-bar speakers may be overpowered by the amplified speakers.
Thanks for the info on the db651's. I was really wanting to use the full size speakers.
Thanks DTOM, The Head Unit is what's killing my budget. But it is also the motive for the audio upgrade. I'm wanting a Touch Screen unit with all the bells and whistles built in. I like your idea about the line drivers and the Focals. But my budget is stressed already.
Thanks to you too 12 AU. The driving force behind the audio upgrade is the Head unit. I'm looking for an aftermarket "My Gig". Full touch screen with built in NAV, Hands Free Blue Tooth w/ audio streaming, ect, ect. I think that the aftermarket route is cheaper and better than the OE alternative. Like you, I'm also interested in "clean and loud" sound. I am an audio connoisseur. But unfortunately not an audiophile.
Question: Can someone explain the "general" process of tuning a new system. Filter adjustment first? Gain adjustment first?
Thanks again guys.
11-27-2012, 05:36 AM
#12
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Front speakers - I figured that I would attempt to adjust them to the full range specified by the speaker specs.
Soundbar Speakers - I would like to adjust OUT some of the base with the Low Pass filter. And maybe set the High Pass to full range of the speaker.
Subwoofer - Adjust low pass to full range of the speaker specs?
Please give your suggestion. I plan on setting the gains using the multimeter method.
Question: My Soundbar speakers are going to be overpowered by the amp. And I'm considering buying a different Mono amp. But then the woofer will be overpowered too. Can I reduce the gain to compensate?
Oh ya I've looked at many different build plans. And there is so many things that I am still clueless about. I've tried talking to one of the local installers. And I walked away with a bad impression. I really want to put together a "good" build. I can't afford to just throw money at this untill I get it right. So I appreciate any recommendations from you guys.
11-29-2012, 07:00 AM
#13
JK Newbie
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HD900/5 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - HD - JL Audio
I'd go with that. For a multitude of reasons. It's a VERY nice amp, that'll cover all your bases for ya'.
In my GC SRT8 I jus traded in, I had:
JL Audio Clean Sweep audio processor -That takes away the need to do any tweaking of the EQ or adjusting each speaker's X-over.
Memphis tweeters -replaced the 3.5" speakers n the dash. These had built in X-overs and filters, so I didn't have to make any adjustments.
JL Audio C2 speakers all around
JL Audio 500/1 subwoofer amp
JL Audio 300/4 high's amp
JL Audio 10W7 subwoofer
That was more than enough for me. If I were to do it again, I'd use the amp above.
I'd go with that. For a multitude of reasons. It's a VERY nice amp, that'll cover all your bases for ya'.
In my GC SRT8 I jus traded in, I had:
JL Audio Clean Sweep audio processor -That takes away the need to do any tweaking of the EQ or adjusting each speaker's X-over.
Memphis tweeters -replaced the 3.5" speakers n the dash. These had built in X-overs and filters, so I didn't have to make any adjustments.
JL Audio C2 speakers all around
JL Audio 500/1 subwoofer amp
JL Audio 300/4 high's amp
JL Audio 10W7 subwoofer
That was more than enough for me. If I were to do it again, I'd use the amp above.
11-29-2012, 10:26 AM
#14
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
HD900/5 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - HD - JL Audio
I'd go with that. For a multitude of reasons. It's a VERY nice amp, that'll cover all your bases for ya'.
In my GC SRT8 I jus traded in, I had:
JL Audio Clean Sweep audio processor -That takes away the need to do any tweaking of the EQ or adjusting each speaker's X-over.
Memphis tweeters -replaced the 3.5" speakers n the dash. These had built in X-overs and filters, so I didn't have to make any adjustments.
JL Audio C2 speakers all around
JL Audio 500/1 subwoofer amp
JL Audio 300/4 high's amp
JL Audio 10W7 subwoofer
That was more than enough for me. If I were to do it again, I'd use the amp above.
I'd go with that. For a multitude of reasons. It's a VERY nice amp, that'll cover all your bases for ya'.
In my GC SRT8 I jus traded in, I had:
JL Audio Clean Sweep audio processor -That takes away the need to do any tweaking of the EQ or adjusting each speaker's X-over.
Memphis tweeters -replaced the 3.5" speakers n the dash. These had built in X-overs and filters, so I didn't have to make any adjustments.
JL Audio C2 speakers all around
JL Audio 500/1 subwoofer amp
JL Audio 300/4 high's amp
JL Audio 10W7 subwoofer
That was more than enough for me. If I were to do it again, I'd use the amp above.
11-29-2012, 06:35 PM
#15
Oh thank you so much. Where do I start?
Front speakers - I figured that I would attempt to adjust them to the full range specified by the speaker specs.
Soundbar Speakers - I would like to adjust OUT some of the base with the Low Pass filter. And maybe set the High Pass to full range of the speaker.
Subwoofer - Adjust low pass to full range of the speaker specs?
Please give your suggestion. ...
Question: My Soundbar speakers are going to be overpowered by the amp. And I'm considering buying a different Mono amp. But then the woofer will be overpowered too. Can I reduce the gain to compensate?
Front speakers - I figured that I would attempt to adjust them to the full range specified by the speaker specs.
Soundbar Speakers - I would like to adjust OUT some of the base with the Low Pass filter. And maybe set the High Pass to full range of the speaker.
Subwoofer - Adjust low pass to full range of the speaker specs?
Please give your suggestion. ...
Question: My Soundbar speakers are going to be overpowered by the amp. And I'm considering buying a different Mono amp. But then the woofer will be overpowered too. Can I reduce the gain to compensate?
1) Front Speakers - If you are 1) going to run a sub, 2) Get the fronts to play loud and clear, then you want to actually take some of the bass out of them too. Think of it this way, the rhythm comes from the drums (bass) and for this, the subwoofer does the Heavy lifting. I would cross the fronts over at least at 80hz so they get everything above this range.... A 6.5 inch driver in your dash, with no baffle is going to be flat out wasting energy trying to produce bass that cannot be created based on it's size and location.
2) Sound bar - Cross over at 100-120 hz so that they receive everything above this range. Again, no bass is going to be produced here... At least not good sounding bass :-)
3) Subwoofer - cross this over to play everything 80hz and below.
Now those are just the basic settings above.
GOOD Advise to heed below.
1) It is MUCH BETTER to OVER POWER a set of speakers than to under power them.
2) Use your amp gains and method as I described before to set the final MAX volume of each set of speakers.
3) The manufactures specified frequency range is based on LAB testing... Not real world environments. TAKE THEM WITH A GRAIN OF SALT.
4) Choose 1 place to make adjustments to your cross overs. If you have a hi-end head unit, use the built in cross overs, if you do not, then use the Amp cross overs (DO NOT USE BOTH).
5) When using crossovers, there is usually a dB slope that comes into effect. Typically, 6dB, 12dB, 18dB, and 24dB. This "basically" correlates to how abruptly the crossover is going to cut out the specified frequencies... Typically the dB slope will be 12 or 18dB...
6) After everything above if gets a lot more technical. Happy to answer more questions if you want, but I hope that you use this advise.
Cheers.
11-30-2012, 03:52 AM
#16
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Lots of good questions here. I'll try to cover them based on my experience.
1) Front Speakers - If you are 1) going to run a sub, 2) Get the fronts to play loud and clear, then you want to actually take some of the bass out of them too. Think of it this way, the rhythm comes from the drums (bass) and for this, the subwoofer does the Heavy lifting. I would cross the fronts over at least at 80hz so they get everything above this range.... A 6.5 inch driver in your dash, with no baffle is going to be flat out wasting energy trying to produce bass that cannot be created based on it's size and location.
2) Sound bar - Cross over at 100-120 hz so that they receive everything above this range. Again, no bass is going to be produced here... At least not good sounding bass :-)
3) Subwoofer - cross this over to play everything 80hz and below.
Now those are just the basic settings above.
GOOD Advise to heed below.
1) It is MUCH BETTER to OVER POWER a set of speakers than to under power them.
2) Use your amp gains and method as I described before to set the final MAX volume of each set of speakers.
3) The manufactures specified frequency range is based on LAB testing... Not real world environments. TAKE THEM WITH A GRAIN OF SALT.
4) Choose 1 place to make adjustments to your cross overs. If you have a hi-end head unit, use the built in cross overs, if you do not, then use the Amp cross overs (DO NOT USE BOTH).
5) When using crossovers, there is usually a dB slope that comes into effect. Typically, 6dB, 12dB, 18dB, and 24dB. This "basically" correlates to how abruptly the crossover is going to cut out the specified frequencies... Typically the dB slope will be 12 or 18dB...
6) After everything above if gets a lot more technical. Happy to answer more questions if you want, but I hope that you use this advise.
Cheers.
1) Front Speakers - If you are 1) going to run a sub, 2) Get the fronts to play loud and clear, then you want to actually take some of the bass out of them too. Think of it this way, the rhythm comes from the drums (bass) and for this, the subwoofer does the Heavy lifting. I would cross the fronts over at least at 80hz so they get everything above this range.... A 6.5 inch driver in your dash, with no baffle is going to be flat out wasting energy trying to produce bass that cannot be created based on it's size and location.
2) Sound bar - Cross over at 100-120 hz so that they receive everything above this range. Again, no bass is going to be produced here... At least not good sounding bass :-)
3) Subwoofer - cross this over to play everything 80hz and below.
Now those are just the basic settings above.
GOOD Advise to heed below.
1) It is MUCH BETTER to OVER POWER a set of speakers than to under power them.
2) Use your amp gains and method as I described before to set the final MAX volume of each set of speakers.
3) The manufactures specified frequency range is based on LAB testing... Not real world environments. TAKE THEM WITH A GRAIN OF SALT.
4) Choose 1 place to make adjustments to your cross overs. If you have a hi-end head unit, use the built in cross overs, if you do not, then use the Amp cross overs (DO NOT USE BOTH).
5) When using crossovers, there is usually a dB slope that comes into effect. Typically, 6dB, 12dB, 18dB, and 24dB. This "basically" correlates to how abruptly the crossover is going to cut out the specified frequencies... Typically the dB slope will be 12 or 18dB...
6) After everything above if gets a lot more technical. Happy to answer more questions if you want, but I hope that you use this advise.
Cheers.
And Thank You so much for taking time to post it. Now I know where to start.
12-04-2012, 08:07 PM
#17