That's the Bazooka BTA8100 right? (8 inch, 100w powered) If so, $50 is a steal...especially if it's new like you say ($200 new). Just make sure that it is powered before you buy, because some of the Bazooka's are not...then you would have to buy an amp and have that to deal with.

 

how 'bout those pics?

 

I have this unit also it sounds great, actually it was more base than I wanted I only keep mine at about 1/4 power

 

Yeah, mine's turned down alot too. IT sounded MUCH better in my Liberty...I think the space it's in has alot to do with it. It's kinda cramped where it is right now, but still sounds awesome.

 

Sup all, newb here. But I had numerous sub solutions in my TJ, and of them I think the Basslink and 8" powered Bazooka were the best. Basslink was compact and had excellent response/power, but I feared for its survival in a downpour. Luckily it was stolen before it saw any rain. Anyhow, I've had various tube configurations, and if you have a MOSFET head unit with 50+ watts per, you can use the 2 rear outs with a DVC (dual voice coil) 8" bazooka. Any larger would be underpowered, but 8 worked great for me. The best solution is the marine version of the powered 8" bazooka. The whole thing is sealed and the cone is laminated to be water and corrosion resistant. I've found bazookas to possess the most efficiency and accuracy of the many subs I have used. Hope this helps!

 

I would fall under the "Other Powered Sub" solutions catagory.

I have 2 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch Subs with a 250amp (i think...have to double check) pushing them. It is a good sized box, but i have it wired so that all i have to do is unplug one plug and undo a couple RCA plugs and slide the box out. works pretty slick. I absolutely love it. I connected it to the Factory base model HU and hve beeen pleasantly entertained with the sound quality.

Me

 

Any day now my new wakeboard tubbies should be at the door.
Right now I have 2 6x9's powered by a 1000 watt four channel amp in the storage area.
My plan is to take out the rear seatbelts and attach the tubbies in a horizontal position sort of resting on the inside of the rear fender .
Also plan on a powered sub under the driver seat with a plate covering the side of the seat bracket, for prying eyes.
So, my four 6.5" Infinities in the stock speaker holes are powered by the head unit only, my two 6x9's and two tubbies are powered by the amp and the sub under the seat is self powered. Very simple!
Pics will be posted soon,.

 

I would argue that my subs are powered.......otherwise i would get no sound out of them. As far as built in, My amp and subs are all afixed to the same container (so i can remove all of it at the same time as one unit) which is really all the "powered subs" you talk about are. They just come in different packaging.

 

True, but I don't think that's what the OP was asking about.

 

just to make things easy. What about a basslink II plus the module. It mentions 35 wtts with 4 ohm or 50 wtts with 2 ohm.

So.... If I go this route, which speakers should I go with in terms of fair price? Can I still use the covers on the top bar when I switch those out and are the front easy to work with.

Out of curiosity... How many watts is our little factory pushing?

The reason I liked the basslink II was that I have a sub thats loud and I can pretty much use the module to upgrade the car system all in one power feed. My only thing is the power module being so expensive instead of swapping out the speakers.

No matter what, I think I'm going with a basslink with or without the module if needed...

What's you take guys !!!