anyone replace abs module??
#11
#13
The ABS module is under the hood right in front of the Brake Master Cylinder which is attached to the power booster.
I had the same issue with my ABS and had to replace the ABS module. The thing about the ABS module is that it comes in 2 parts. There is the Electronic Control Module and then the Pump itself. They fit together and are then installed together.
When removing the ABS, you just take off all the break lines, the one bolt holding it on the side, then pull like hell on it. It's press-held into rubber grommets underneath. You don't really need to take the bolt on the side off, I just found it easier.
Now what sucks is, you have to replace both parts at the same time.
These parts have a different number depending on your year model, so interchanging them doesn't work. (I tried, spent about $200 to figure this one out.)
Once you've replaced the parts, you'll most likely need a PCM reflash so the parts will match up with the computer and clear the codes for you. The dealer has to do this part, so call around.
You'll know immediately whether this is the case, as the ABS light will flash at you and the dash will let out a loud ding every time it does. No matter how long you drive, and no matter what you do. AND IT WILL DRIVE YOU BATSH*T CRAZY!
But before that happens, immediately after replacing the ABS module, you'll have to bleed all of your brakes. This is good though, as most people never change their brake fluid even though it's recommended to be done every 2 years. It gets old, like all other fluids and should be replaced. I'd recommend draining the reservoir before starting and filling with fresh fluid so You're pulling the old out of the lines and replacing it with fresh as you go.
The order is as follows.
Rear Passenger
Rear Driver
Front Passenger
Front Driver
Making sure that you keep an eye on the fluid reservoir.
Hope this helps,
Grim
The parts are http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....444643&jsn=470 and http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....444643&jsn=473
Those are both for a 2010 vehicle, get the ones for your specific year model. The cost should be the same - roughly $500.
I had the same issue with my ABS and had to replace the ABS module. The thing about the ABS module is that it comes in 2 parts. There is the Electronic Control Module and then the Pump itself. They fit together and are then installed together.
When removing the ABS, you just take off all the break lines, the one bolt holding it on the side, then pull like hell on it. It's press-held into rubber grommets underneath. You don't really need to take the bolt on the side off, I just found it easier.
Now what sucks is, you have to replace both parts at the same time.
These parts have a different number depending on your year model, so interchanging them doesn't work. (I tried, spent about $200 to figure this one out.)
Once you've replaced the parts, you'll most likely need a PCM reflash so the parts will match up with the computer and clear the codes for you. The dealer has to do this part, so call around.
You'll know immediately whether this is the case, as the ABS light will flash at you and the dash will let out a loud ding every time it does. No matter how long you drive, and no matter what you do. AND IT WILL DRIVE YOU BATSH*T CRAZY!
But before that happens, immediately after replacing the ABS module, you'll have to bleed all of your brakes. This is good though, as most people never change their brake fluid even though it's recommended to be done every 2 years. It gets old, like all other fluids and should be replaced. I'd recommend draining the reservoir before starting and filling with fresh fluid so You're pulling the old out of the lines and replacing it with fresh as you go.
The order is as follows.
Rear Passenger
Rear Driver
Front Passenger
Front Driver
Making sure that you keep an eye on the fluid reservoir.
Hope this helps,
Grim
The parts are http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....444643&jsn=470 and http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....444643&jsn=473
Those are both for a 2010 vehicle, get the ones for your specific year model. The cost should be the same - roughly $500.
Last edited by grim_creation; 06-10-2016 at 11:44 AM. Reason: MORE INFORMATION!!!!
#14
Thank you grim_creation I was having a very difficult time with this it looks like I might just be taking it to the dealer for this one since they will need to flash it anyway. I'm sure they will charge me and arm and a leg. I just had my engine replaced after throwing a rod so this isn't very high on my list right now since my pocket was just hurt pretty bad after a new engine lol I'll have to get a quote on what it'll cost thanks again
#15
Thank you grim_creation I was having a very difficult time with this it looks like I might just be taking it to the dealer for this one since they will need to flash it anyway. I'm sure they will charge me and arm and a leg. I just had my engine replaced after throwing a rod so this isn't very high on my list right now since my pocket was just hurt pretty bad after a new engine lol I'll have to get a quote on what it'll cost thanks again
#17
Just had mine replaced at dealership for $600. It was only the module and not the pump. It can be done by the owner but it’s hard to get to the screws because of the way it’s mounted. Once you change it you have to get it initialized at the dealer for about $125. I found the part for $175 but after I was already into it with the diagnostic I just let them do it. Another dealership wanted $200 MORE than this one. So shop around before you go to any one place.
#18
You can just replace the module if that’s all that’s bad. It’s just hard to get to on a JK. See my post.
#20
I got mine done at the dealership because they have to initialize it on their computer for it to read your vin number which costs you about $100. I let them put in their module so they would have to warranty it. I did however find a price difference of $200 on the total installation between two dealerships.