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AMP & SUB Upgrade with (non-Infinity) Factory Head Unit

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Old 01-15-2013, 05:36 AM
  #1  
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Default AMP & SUB Upgrade with (non-Infinity) Factory Head Unit

Just got a new 2013 JKU and upgraded the speakers to Kicker KS65 using some adapters. Now the harder part. Installing the 4 Channel AMP (i.e., 4AMP) and the Kicker subwoofer with integrated Amp (i.e. SUBAMP) to my factory head unit (i.e., H/U). Never did this before but saw what the installers did on my 2010 JKU taken by Sandy (may she rest in piece). I've seen a lot of write ups on upgrading the infinity system but none on the non-Infinity system. So I would like to eventually make this the write up by editing this post as I get more feedback and conduct more research.

Below are my planned steps and open questions.

STEPS
  1. Cut wires from H/U to speakers
  2. Splice the cut wires from H/U to Line Output Convertor (i.e., LOC(s))
  3. Run RCA cables from LOC(s) to 4AMP and plug into channel inputs (audio going from H/U to 4AMP)
  4. Run speaker wire from RCA channel outputs to back of H/U and splice to the other end of cut wires leading to speakers (audio going from 4AMP to speakers)
  5. Run RCA cable from 4AMP pre out channels (left and right) to SUBAMP left and right input


QUESTIONS
  • H/U Crossovers? What frequency crossover is the H/U doing? Should I get a LOC that sums the frequencies and how many channels? I read that the Infinity system should use 8 channels that includes tweeter and sub. But if the non-Infinity system has no sub, does that mean I should only get 6 channels (2 front speakers, 2 back speakers, 2 tweeters)
  • Once I get the audio to the 4AMP, do I need to crossover the frequencies back to the tweeters and 2 front speakers, or do I simply splice the 4AMP front speaker channels to the tweeters and front speakers? If the former, what do I need for the crossover?
  • Do not know the correct term (switch?) but what pins do I attach the blue cable that turns off the power to 4AMP and SUBAMP when the radio is turned off?
  • I planned to run the power for both amps individually to the battery. Should I do this, or is there a "power splitter device" that I can run once to the battery and then split the power to both amps. Any recommendations?
  • Anyone have a good link to the H/U wire diagram?
  • Anything else that I'm missing?

Thanks everyone for your help in advance. I'll update the thread as I get more information, and hopefully this will be a write-up with pictures and video.
Old 01-15-2013, 10:39 AM
  #2  
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See below in line......

Originally Posted by shrimpster
Just got a new 2013 JKU and upgraded the speakers to Kicker KS65 using some adapters. Now the harder part. Installing the 4 Channel AMP (i.e., 4AMP) and the Kicker subwoofer with integrated Amp (i.e. SUBAMP) to my factory head unit (i.e., H/U). Never did this before but saw what the installers did on my 2010 JKU taken by Sandy (may she rest in piece). I've seen a lot of write ups on upgrading the infinity system but none on the non-Infinity system. So I would like to eventually make this the write up by editing this post as I get more feedback and conduct more research.

Below are my planned steps and open questions.

STEPS
  1. Cut wires from H/U to speakers
  2. Splice the cut wires from H/U to Line Output Convertor (i.e., LOC(s))
  3. Run RCA cables from LOC(s) to 4AMP and plug into channel inputs (audio going from H/U to 4AMP)
  4. Run speaker wire from RCA channel outputs to back of H/U and splice to the other end of cut wires leading to speakers (audio going from 4AMP to speakers)
  5. Run RCA cable from 4AMP pre out channels (left and right) to SUBAMP left and right input


QUESTIONS
  • H/U Crossovers? What frequency crossover is the H/U doing? Should I get a LOC that sums the frequencies and how many channels? I read that the Infinity system should use 8 channels that includes tweeter and sub. But if the non-Infinity system has no sub, does that mean I should only get 6 channels (2 front speakers, 2 back speakers, 2 tweeters)

  • Since you speakers are coaxial speakers (Tweets built in, not separate), all you need is 4 channels of amplification. If you add a sub, you will need a fifth channel of amplification.
  • Once I get the audio to the 4AMP, do I need to crossover the frequencies back to the tweeters and 2 front speakers, or do I simply splice the 4AMP front speaker channels to the tweeters and front speakers? If the former, what do I need for the crossover?

  • Not sure I understand, are you using both coaxial speakers in the dash location and the factory tweeters on the dash? If so, then yes you will need a cross over or bass limiter on the factory tweeter so it does not blow. Be careful that your amp can handle below 4ohms for the front channels if you decide to wire the tweeters in parallel to the Kicker coax speakers. For that matter, be sure that your amp can do 2ohms per all four channels if the kickers are two ohm speakers. You can look at the specs or use a volt meter to check your resistance. Many 4 channel amps cannot go below 4 ohms.

    Many people replace the front speakers with component speakers that would have a separate mid-bass driver in the dash, a crossover and a separate tweeter in the factory location. In that case you only need two channels of amplification and the crossover would send the correct signals to both the woofer and tweeter.
  • Do not know the correct term (switch?) but what pins do I attach the blue cable that turns off the power to 4AMP and SUBAMP when the radio is turned off?
  • I planned to run the power for both amps individually to the battery. Should I do this, or is there a "power splitter device" that I can run once to the battery and then split the power to both amps. Any recommendations?

  • Yes, run the amp power wires to the battery and use a distribution block to split the power wires for the two amps.
  • Anyone have a good link to the H/U wire diagram?

  • There have been many posted.
  • Anything else that I'm missing?

Thanks everyone for your help in advance. I'll update the thread as I get more information, and hopefully this will be a write-up with pictures and video.
Old 01-15-2013, 12:13 PM
  #3  
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Thanks for your feedback. Here is some more feedback on some of your questions. Maybe I should replace the coaxial dash speakers with component speakers instead but if my amp and speakers can handle as is, I'll go ahead with that (see amp and speaker specs below)

QUESTIONS
  • H/U Crossovers? What frequency crossover is the H/U doing? Should I get a LOC that sums the frequencies and how many channels? I read that the Infinity system should use 8 channels that includes tweeter and sub. But if the non-Infinity system has no sub, does that mean I should only get 6 channels (2 front speakers, 2 back speakers, 2 tweeters)


Since you speakers are coaxial speakers (Tweets built in, not separate), all you need is 4 channels of amplification. If you add a sub, you will need a fifth channel of amplification.

>>>I read that some factory units will filter out frequencies to specific speakers. Given the JKU has the tweeter separate, I was not sure if the H/U was sending specific frequencies to the tweeter directly and the front/left speakers were getting lower frequencies. If this is the case, I think I need to run tweeter wires and the speaker wires to a LOC that sums all the frequencies together and sends it to the 4AMP
  • Once I get the audio to the 4AMP, do I need to crossover the frequencies back to the tweeters and 2 front speakers, or do I simply splice the 4AMP front speaker channels to the tweeters and front speakers? If the former, what do I need for the crossover?


Not sure I understand, are you using both coaxial speakers in the dash location and the factory tweeters on the dash? If so, then yes you will need a cross over or bass limiter on the factory tweeter so it does not blow. Be careful that your amp can handle below 4ohms for the front channels if you decide to wire the tweeters in parallel to the Kicker coax speakers. For that matter, be sure that your amp can do 2ohms per all four channels if the kickers are two ohm speakers. You can look at the specs or use a volt meter to check your resistance. Many 4 channel amps cannot go below 4 ohms.

>>>Here are the specs for my 4AMP. Delivers continuous 75 watts x 4 at 4 ohms, 100 watts x 4 at 2 ohms, 200 watts x 2 bridged at 4 ohms. Speakers are 65 Watt RMS

Here is the speaker. Impedance: 4-ohms

What do you think? Can I run 2 channels to the front speakers and twitters simultaneously?


Many people replace the front speakers with component speakers that would have a separate mid-bass driver in the dash, a crossover and a separate tweeter in the factory location. In that case you only need two channels of amplification and the crossover would send the correct signals to both the woofer and tweeter.
  • Do not know the correct term (switch?) but what pins do I attach the blue cable that turns off the power to 4AMP and SUBAMP when the radio is turned off?
  • I planned to run the power for both amps individually to the battery. Should I do this, or is there a "power splitter device" that I can run once to the battery and then split the power to both amps. Any recommendations?


Yes, run the amp power wires to the battery and use a distribution block to split the power wires for the two amps.
Anyone have a good link to the H/U wire diagram?

>>>Thanks!

There have been many posted.
Anything else that I'm missing?
Old 01-15-2013, 02:04 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by shrimpster
Thanks for your feedback. Here is some more feedback on some of your questions. Maybe I should replace the coaxial dash speakers with component speakers instead but if my amp and speakers can handle as is, I'll go ahead with that (see amp and speaker specs below)

QUESTIONS

[*]H/U Crossovers? What frequency crossover is the H/U doing? Should I get a LOC that sums the frequencies and how many channels? I read that the Infinity system should use 8 channels that includes tweeter and sub. But if the non-Infinity system has no sub, does that mean I should only get 6 channels (2 front speakers, 2 back speakers, 2 tweeters)


Since you speakers are coaxial speakers (Tweets built in, not separate), all you need is 4 channels of amplification. If you add a sub, you will need a fifth channel of amplification.

>>>I read that some factory units will filter out frequencies to specific speakers. Given the JKU has the tweeter separate, I was not sure if the H/U was sending specific frequencies to the tweeter directly and the front/left speakers were getting lower frequencies. If this is the case, I think I need to run tweeter wires and the speaker wires to a LOC that sums all the frequencies together and sends it to the 4AMP

[*]Once I get the audio to the 4AMP, do I need to crossover the frequencies back to the tweeters and 2 front speakers, or do I simply splice the 4AMP front speaker channels to the tweeters and front speakers? If the former, what do I need for the crossover?


Not sure I understand, are you using both coaxial speakers in the dash location and the factory tweeters on the dash? If so, then yes you will need a cross over or bass limiter on the factory tweeter so it does not blow. Be careful that your amp can handle below 4ohms for the front channels if you decide to wire the tweeters in parallel to the Kicker coax speakers. For that matter, be sure that your amp can do 2ohms per all four channels if the kickers are two ohm speakers. You can look at the specs or use a volt meter to check your resistance. Many 4 channel amps cannot go below 4 ohms.

>>>Here are the specs for my 4AMP. Delivers continuous 75 watts x 4 at 4 ohms, 100 watts x 4 at 2 ohms, 200 watts x 2 bridged at 4 ohms. Speakers are 65 Watt RMS

Here is the speaker. Impedance: 4-ohms

What do you think? Can I run 2 channels to the front speakers and twitters simultaneously?

Many people replace the front speakers with component speakers that would have a separate mid-bass driver in the dash, a crossover and a separate tweeter in the factory location. In that case you only need two channels of amplification and the crossover would send the correct signals to both the woofer and tweeter.

[*]Do not know the correct term (switch?) but what pins do I attach the blue cable that turns off the power to 4AMP and SUBAMP when the radio is turned off?


[*]I planned to run the power for both amps individually to the battery. Should I do this, or is there a "power splitter device" that I can run once to the battery and then split the power to both amps. Any recommendations?


Yes, run the amp power wires to the battery and use a distribution block to split the power wires for the two amps.
Anyone have a good link to the H/U wire diagram?

>>>Thanks!

There have been many posted.
Anything else that I'm missing?



I think on the non-infinity system there is an in-line crossover, not a separate channel but you will have to check. If you run a 2ohm tweeter and a 2ohm coax in line, they can be wired to be 1 ohm total or 4 ohms total. Crutchfield will have wiring diagrams, but you will have to find the inline crossover and be sure you use it. Personally, I would not use both a coax and a separate tweeter. I would replace with component speakers (and did in my jeep)



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