alpine 8" sub - 2 or 4OHM??
#11
Originally Posted by White-JKU
Alpine amps are also usually under rated. They can handle and do more than they say. Truthfully you will never be able to tell the difference. 2ohm are easier to run so just do that then. Good choices on the amp. Cant speak for the subs, have only ran kicker.
#14
Originally Posted by EsByrd
If u go by this u run the risk of damaging ur amp. Rule of thumb is never under power ur sub and never run a amp at full power. I worked car audio a long time and have one many DB competitions. If a sub can handle 500rms then a 750rms amp turn to 65-70% is a good setup and also sounds better do to the fact that a class d amp running above 80% cause distortion.
#15
Originally Posted by Ryan0260
My point was not to buy a 500 watt max sub, and use an amp that pushes more than that at the given load, like 700 watts...
#16
Thanks guys now it is making sense, hopefully I'll get around to getting all this stuff in soon and I'll report back on results. If anyones interested during my search I found this sub recommended as a direct replacement to the factory unit
Pioneer TS-SW841D Shallow-mount 8" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
From what I've read the alpine sub will require a spacer to get in the stock box, I'm also going to dynamat and polyfill the box for good measure
Pioneer TS-SW841D Shallow-mount 8" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
From what I've read the alpine sub will require a spacer to get in the stock box, I'm also going to dynamat and polyfill the box for good measure
#17
Originally Posted by EsByrd
I just used 500 as a example but my point was that a amp should be able to Max the sub out at around 70% power. A lot of people try to save their subs from blowing by getting a amp that can't blow them but it is still harmful on the speaker by under powering them so its best to Max the speaker but watch the volume
#18
Originally Posted by Ryan0260
Yeah but most people don't know to watch the volume and that is the problem