Aftermarket Sound System Questions
#1
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Aftermarket Sound System Questions
I've been working on planning out an aftermarket sound system for my 2012 JK Rubicon. I'm just overall not happy with the factory system. I do have the factory Infinity system along with Uconnect, SiriusXM, and Connectivity (bluetooth, USB in console, factory sub)
I have a number of small questions I'm seeking input on and didn't want to create a dozen different threads. Anyway, I've been shopping around for a week+ and I've hit a roadblock and having a hard time deciding between a few things.
My overall vision: replace HU with double-DIN, replace factory front components and rear coaxial with better speakers, add new subwoofer, add amplification (to sub and also possibly new main speakers). I have the Tuffy Security Deck Enclosure in place of a rear seat and amp(s) and sub would go under there for security.
Here are the questions so far:
- For storage space considerations, I only want a single sub. Looking for a 10" or 12" that can do 500-1000w RMS. Probably needs to be able to be wired to 1 ohm as it seems that's the best fit for most mono amplifiers or 5-channel amp's sub channel. Under $300. Recommendations on a sub? Worth it to get the 12" and concede a bit more space over the 10"?
- I've always liked the sound of a sub in sealed enclosure, so I'm leaning that way. Since it's just going to sit in the back it doesn't need to be custom and it'll be covered so it doesn't need stealth. I understand ported would be louder and I don't think port noise would be a big concern as the security deck would muffle that. Thoughts on sealed or ported in this scenario?
- Would a down-firing enclosure produce a better feel for the bass in a jeep that one that fires to the side? I've not seen a down firing single-10 or single-12 enclosure that wasn't for some specific application or only for shallow-mount speakers. I don't have a ton of space, but don't need shallow mount.
- Thoughts on a set of front components that are an easy fit and have greats highs? I loathe the "tinny" sound some produce. Don't want to spend a fortune since it'll never sound that great in a Jeep's noisy environment.
- I may do the install in parts... sub now and new HU etc. later. If I disconnected the factory sub and used the line-level signal from the sub's speaker wires, would it be a half-decent signal to feed and aftermarket amp?
I have a number of small questions I'm seeking input on and didn't want to create a dozen different threads. Anyway, I've been shopping around for a week+ and I've hit a roadblock and having a hard time deciding between a few things.
My overall vision: replace HU with double-DIN, replace factory front components and rear coaxial with better speakers, add new subwoofer, add amplification (to sub and also possibly new main speakers). I have the Tuffy Security Deck Enclosure in place of a rear seat and amp(s) and sub would go under there for security.
Here are the questions so far:
- For storage space considerations, I only want a single sub. Looking for a 10" or 12" that can do 500-1000w RMS. Probably needs to be able to be wired to 1 ohm as it seems that's the best fit for most mono amplifiers or 5-channel amp's sub channel. Under $300. Recommendations on a sub? Worth it to get the 12" and concede a bit more space over the 10"?
- I've always liked the sound of a sub in sealed enclosure, so I'm leaning that way. Since it's just going to sit in the back it doesn't need to be custom and it'll be covered so it doesn't need stealth. I understand ported would be louder and I don't think port noise would be a big concern as the security deck would muffle that. Thoughts on sealed or ported in this scenario?
- Would a down-firing enclosure produce a better feel for the bass in a jeep that one that fires to the side? I've not seen a down firing single-10 or single-12 enclosure that wasn't for some specific application or only for shallow-mount speakers. I don't have a ton of space, but don't need shallow mount.
- Thoughts on a set of front components that are an easy fit and have greats highs? I loathe the "tinny" sound some produce. Don't want to spend a fortune since it'll never sound that great in a Jeep's noisy environment.
- I may do the install in parts... sub now and new HU etc. later. If I disconnected the factory sub and used the line-level signal from the sub's speaker wires, would it be a half-decent signal to feed and aftermarket amp?
Last edited by arjeeper; 04-03-2014 at 01:25 PM.
#2
I've been working on planning out an aftermarket sound system for my 2012 JK Rubicon. I'm just overall not happy with the factory system. I do have the factory Infinity system along with Uconnect, SiriusXM, and Connectivity (bluetooth, USB in console, factory sub)
I have a number of small questions I'm seeking input on and didn't want to create a dozen different threads. Anyway, I've been shopping around for a week+ and I've hit a roadblock and having a hard time deciding between a few things.
My overall vision: replace HU with double-DIN, replace factory front components and rear coaxial with better speakers, add new subwoofer, add amplification (to sub and also possibly new main speakers). I have the Tuffy Security Deck Enclosure in place of a rear seat and amp(s) and sub would go under there for security.
I went with Pioneers top of the line DVD receiver because I didn't need Nav and it has a removable face for security for when I leave the top off.
Here are the questions so far:
- For storage space considerations, I only want a single sub. Looking for a 10" or 12" that can do 500-1000w RMS. Probably needs to be able to be wired to 1 ohm as it seems that's the best fit for most mono amplifiers or 5-channel amp's sub channel. Under $300. Recommendations on a sub? Worth it to get the 12" and concede a bit more space over the 10"?
To choose a sub, you may want to take into consideration the amount of space your box will take up. For instance a 10" sub will require right around 1 cu ft. It doesn't have to be a perfect square, the internal volume just has to be 1 cu ft. I have built around 20 sub boxes for various Jeeps in the last year and a half and have tested almost every shallow sub available, from the most expensive Alpine Type R Thin mount, JL 10" shallow to budget subs like Kicker and Pioneer. The best bang for the buck I have come across are Sundown SD-2. They are the same subs as the SA line, with a thinner magnet. I wouldn't call them true shallow mounts because they are deeper than 4". The venting is around the sides of the basket instead of a pole vent. It allows you to mount it pretty shallow in comparison regular depth woofers. They come in 8, 10 and 12"
- I've always liked the sound of a sub in sealed enclosure, so I'm leaning that way. Since it's just going to sit in the back it doesn't need to be custom and it'll be covered so it doesn't need stealth. I understand ported would be louder and I don't think port noise would be a big concern as the security deck would muffle that. Thoughts on sealed or ported in this scenario?
I agree, I like the sound of sealed enclosures.
- Would a down-firing enclosure produce a better feel for the bass in a jeep that one that fires to the side? I've not seen a down firing single-10 or single-12 enclosure that wasn't for some specific application or only for shallow-mount speakers. I don't have a ton of space, but don't need shallow mount.
Bass is omnidirectional, but down firing subs are to create a "coupling" with the floor below. I admit I've never built a down firing sub in a car but theoretically it may vibrate the Jeep more.
- Thoughts on a set of front components that are an easy fit and have greats highs? I loathe the "tinny" sound some produce. Don't want to spend a fortune since it'll never sound that great in a Jeep's noisy environment.
Components and speakers are a matter of taste. If I were you I'd go to a mid to high end store and listen to what sounds good to your ear. There are a lot of people on these forums that use Polk speakers but I've never been a fan but they are cheap. I've used Focal speakers in my cars for the last 15 years from $300 components to $3000 components. i always figure if a company has an ultra high end, some of that technology probably seeps down to their lower priced stuff. I also like the sound of the mid to higher prices JL Audio components. Again, personal taste.
- I may do the install in parts... sub now and new HU etc. later. If I disconnected the factory sub and used the line-level signal from the sub's speaker wires, would it be a half-decent signal to feed and aftermarket amp?
I have a number of small questions I'm seeking input on and didn't want to create a dozen different threads. Anyway, I've been shopping around for a week+ and I've hit a roadblock and having a hard time deciding between a few things.
My overall vision: replace HU with double-DIN, replace factory front components and rear coaxial with better speakers, add new subwoofer, add amplification (to sub and also possibly new main speakers). I have the Tuffy Security Deck Enclosure in place of a rear seat and amp(s) and sub would go under there for security.
I went with Pioneers top of the line DVD receiver because I didn't need Nav and it has a removable face for security for when I leave the top off.
Here are the questions so far:
- For storage space considerations, I only want a single sub. Looking for a 10" or 12" that can do 500-1000w RMS. Probably needs to be able to be wired to 1 ohm as it seems that's the best fit for most mono amplifiers or 5-channel amp's sub channel. Under $300. Recommendations on a sub? Worth it to get the 12" and concede a bit more space over the 10"?
To choose a sub, you may want to take into consideration the amount of space your box will take up. For instance a 10" sub will require right around 1 cu ft. It doesn't have to be a perfect square, the internal volume just has to be 1 cu ft. I have built around 20 sub boxes for various Jeeps in the last year and a half and have tested almost every shallow sub available, from the most expensive Alpine Type R Thin mount, JL 10" shallow to budget subs like Kicker and Pioneer. The best bang for the buck I have come across are Sundown SD-2. They are the same subs as the SA line, with a thinner magnet. I wouldn't call them true shallow mounts because they are deeper than 4". The venting is around the sides of the basket instead of a pole vent. It allows you to mount it pretty shallow in comparison regular depth woofers. They come in 8, 10 and 12"
- I've always liked the sound of a sub in sealed enclosure, so I'm leaning that way. Since it's just going to sit in the back it doesn't need to be custom and it'll be covered so it doesn't need stealth. I understand ported would be louder and I don't think port noise would be a big concern as the security deck would muffle that. Thoughts on sealed or ported in this scenario?
I agree, I like the sound of sealed enclosures.
- Would a down-firing enclosure produce a better feel for the bass in a jeep that one that fires to the side? I've not seen a down firing single-10 or single-12 enclosure that wasn't for some specific application or only for shallow-mount speakers. I don't have a ton of space, but don't need shallow mount.
Bass is omnidirectional, but down firing subs are to create a "coupling" with the floor below. I admit I've never built a down firing sub in a car but theoretically it may vibrate the Jeep more.
- Thoughts on a set of front components that are an easy fit and have greats highs? I loathe the "tinny" sound some produce. Don't want to spend a fortune since it'll never sound that great in a Jeep's noisy environment.
Components and speakers are a matter of taste. If I were you I'd go to a mid to high end store and listen to what sounds good to your ear. There are a lot of people on these forums that use Polk speakers but I've never been a fan but they are cheap. I've used Focal speakers in my cars for the last 15 years from $300 components to $3000 components. i always figure if a company has an ultra high end, some of that technology probably seeps down to their lower priced stuff. I also like the sound of the mid to higher prices JL Audio components. Again, personal taste.
- I may do the install in parts... sub now and new HU etc. later. If I disconnected the factory sub and used the line-level signal from the sub's speaker wires, would it be a half-decent signal to feed and aftermarket amp?
Good luck and have fun.
#3
Most of the answers to your questions are really about personal preference so you'll need to find similar setups to get an idea of what will work best for you.
There are so many choices for the speakers that it will probably come down to finding the best deal on a top brand.
The existing signal on the sub connector is already filtered for the OEM sub so it will bring the suck for a 10/12" hooked to a monoblock. I picked up a PAC C2A-CHY23 and used the rear channel to drive my powered sub. The PAC give full 20-20kHz for your amp to work with. I think the OEM rear speakers are also filtered and don't have the low end frequencies. I don't have any proof of that though.
c
There are so many choices for the speakers that it will probably come down to finding the best deal on a top brand.
The existing signal on the sub connector is already filtered for the OEM sub so it will bring the suck for a 10/12" hooked to a monoblock. I picked up a PAC C2A-CHY23 and used the rear channel to drive my powered sub. The PAC give full 20-20kHz for your amp to work with. I think the OEM rear speakers are also filtered and don't have the low end frequencies. I don't have any proof of that though.
c
#4
I've been working on planning out an aftermarket sound system for my 2012 JK Rubicon. I'm just overall not happy with the factory system. I do have the factory Infinity system along with Uconnect, SiriusXM, and Connectivity (bluetooth, USB in console, factory sub) I have a number of small questions I'm seeking input on and didn't want to create a dozen different threads. Anyway, I've been shopping around for a week+ and I've hit a roadblock and having a hard time deciding between a few things. My overall vision: replace HU with double-DIN, replace factory front components and rear coaxial with better speakers, add new subwoofer, add amplification (to sub and also possibly new main speakers). I have the Tuffy Security Deck Enclosure in place of a rear seat and amp(s) and sub would go under there for security. Here are the questions so far: - For storage space considerations, I only want a single sub. Looking for a 10" or 12" that can do 500-1000w RMS. Probably needs to be able to be wired to 1 ohm as it seems that's the best fit for most mono amplifiers or 5-channel amp's sub channel. Under $300. Recommendations on a sub? Worth it to get the 12" and concede a bit more space over the 10"? - I've always liked the sound of a sub in sealed enclosure, so I'm leaning that way. Since it's just going to sit in the back it doesn't need to be custom and it'll be covered so it doesn't need stealth. I understand ported would be louder and I don't think port noise would be a big concern as the security deck would muffle that. Thoughts on sealed or ported in this scenario? - Would a down-firing enclosure produce a better feel for the bass in a jeep that one that fires to the side? I've not seen a down firing single-10 or single-12 enclosure that wasn't for some specific application or only for shallow-mount speakers. I don't have a ton of space, but don't need shallow mount. - Thoughts on a set of front components that are an easy fit and have greats highs? I loathe the "tinny" sound some produce. Don't want to spend a fortune since it'll never sound that great in a Jeep's noisy environment. - I may do the install in parts... sub now and new HU etc. later. If I disconnected the factory sub and used the line-level signal from the sub's speaker wires, would it be a half-decent signal to feed and aftermarket amp?
#6
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Ok. I've decided on a Rockford Fosgate P1000X1bd Punch 1-Channel Amplifier for the sub. Wanting to go 10" on the sub.
Thoughts on an affordable, but quality sub to match the sub amp?
The amp can do 1,000 watts into a 1 ohm load so I assume I'd want a DVC 2ohm sub.
Thoughts on an affordable, but quality sub to match the sub amp?
The amp can do 1,000 watts into a 1 ohm load so I assume I'd want a DVC 2ohm sub.
#7
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Wrightsville, pa
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I've got a rockford 750.1 amp powering a rockford p2 10 inch sub and it sounds great! Both are 2 ohm stable and match really well together. Got the sub in a ported box on eBay for about 150 shipped and I was shocked how good it sounds. Also running a rockford 400.4 powering jbl components in the dash and jbl coaxials in the soundbar. Both amps and all speakers are 2 ohm and hooked to a Kenwood head unit. The whole system wiring included was just under $1500.
Last edited by Softtailfreek; 04-06-2014 at 12:55 PM.
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#8
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
I've got a rockford 750.1 amp powering a rockford p2 10 inch sub and it sounds great! Both are 2 ohm stable and match really well together. Got the sub in a ported box on eBay for about 150 shipped and I was shocked how good it sounds. Also running a rockford 400.4 powering jbl components in the dash and jbl coaxials in the soundbar. Both amps and all speakers are 2 ohm and hooked to a Kenwood head unit. The whole system wiring included was just under $1500.
Was looking at the RF P2 subs.
#9
JK Enthusiast
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I'm a big fan of my Pioneer shallow mount 10" sub/box. I've also tried larger bandpass boxes as well as down-firing and this 10" firing sideways towards the wheel well sounds and resonates the best with the Jeep. It actually fits perfectly in the side and holds in place with friction from the back seats - Good luck!
#10
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Kinda honing in on the Rockford Fosgate P3D2 10, the Sundown Audio SA-10, or the TC Sounds 10.
I've been out of the car audio game so long the only brands I've used that I have any faith in are RF and JL.
JL just seems so pricey compared I anything in it's class and the RF don't seem to have the power handling to manage 1000w. Although I could wire it to 4ohm and just let the amp coast along.
I've been out of the car audio game so long the only brands I've used that I have any faith in are RF and JL.
JL just seems so pricey compared I anything in it's class and the RF don't seem to have the power handling to manage 1000w. Although I could wire it to 4ohm and just let the amp coast along.