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aftermarket amp install

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Old 10-21-2013, 03:31 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ballsdeep
I went through this, just go aftermarket head unit. The factory one sucks so bad and with the time and money spent trying to make it sound good, you will end up wishing you went aftermarket.
For me having the factory head unit is worth sacraficing sound quality. As of now after getting kickers factory upgrades for the rear (more highs) the system is fairly good just lacks a little kick and range in bass

Rico

You really won't need to remove much of the dash, The amp is located beneath the steering wheel there is a maybe 22" panel that just pops out. I would assume the harness will be connected to it so why do u need to pull apart the dash? There should be many posts on this site for installing aftermarket or just adding another amp ...try the search tool (you may have to read through some to find what you want )
hope this helped ...all I got!

This is what I am hoping to do. I always do lots of research before projects but couldnt find concrete info on the harness in question if it supplied the proper signal.
Old 10-22-2013, 01:14 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Billdozer
Thanks for the replies. I have done an install in the past by using the wires from the head unit. This was on a base (non amplified) stereo. Im assuming you recommend taping in post amp because your implying all fade, volume etc. is controlled by the amp unlike the non amplified head units. If not, I would not think an amplified/eq'd supply would be the best option. It seems odd with the head unit having speaker outs that there would not be an out put controlled by the volume knob of the head unit. I was hoping to use these wires using the factor high level inputs on my amp, JL Audio JX1000. Funny thing is I put my hard top on yesterday and I am really not thinking a sub is as needed. The difference is crazy with hard top installed. My concerns with asking the original question is the fact I dont like taking the dash apart if its not needed. That upper panel seems fragile from past experience. I was hoping by using the harness before the amp I would only have to take the bottom panel off.

Thanks.
I've taken the panel off a dozen times between my 11 and 13. If it's '11+ I wouldn't stress it. I'm not sure what signal the factory amp gets from the HU. When I wired in my aftermarket HU to the factory amp, I just wired the front two channels to the rear input for the amp. There is no fade control when going aftermarket HU. It seems that there may only be a 2 channel input to the factory amp and all of the fading and tuning is handled inside the amp.


I didn't think about it, but you might be able to use PAC C2A-CHY23 for what you are doing. I'm not sure if it works with the amplified audio though, or maybe they are the same HU and it's only a wiring difference. My non-Infinity and Infinity HU both looked exactly the same.

Last edited by ballsdeep; 10-22-2013 at 01:19 PM.
Old 10-25-2013, 07:29 PM
  #13  
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Just seen your post. Actually ordered the Pac harness yesterday. Thought it was well spent to not have to hack into factory wiring. Thanks for the help.
Old 10-26-2013, 08:31 AM
  #14  
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I just went through this.... ended up ditching the factory HU. The amount of cash required to make it right is more than a MUCH better aftermarket unit costs.... then sell the crappy factory unit for a profit!

Anyways... not here to advise, as there is literally a BILLION pages (not really... but you get the idea) out there with the info you need, clearly laid out (I know this, as I just spent a ton of time researching it, as I don't have day labors working for me here on the forum), but don't waste your money on the PAC unit.... it is expensive and isn't nearly the right solution for integrating the factory HU.

Sorry.... see you already wasted the cash. Good research would have lead you to a summing device for various reasons.



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