yellowjeeper85

Like i said originally, it took about eight hours to get the whole thing done, it was rather frustrating at times. and i almost thought of giving up. but i'm glad i stuck to it. it is totally worth it. As an added bonus, i installed 6 pin connectors from radio shack at every door so i can still disconnect the clips and take the doors off. when i install the power windows i will probablly get a 10 or 12 pin connect for each door and combine the power locks, power windows and stock connector all into one. right now i have to dissconnect two clips at each door, the factory and the locks, and with the windows it would be three... so when that day comes, i'll convert them all to one.

Good luck guys, it will be worth the work i promise.

James76

wow thank you so much for the tips...yeah i planned on putting some disconnects so i can still take the doors off too. I might go ahead and slap a bigger connector on now. This may be my first write up! should be getting all my payment info and stuff this week and after i see what $ i have left over i will probably put my remote starter/keyless unit in. Wanna know the worst part? I install this stuff professionally and i still couldnt figure this one out

derby911

Thanks for the tips.

yellowjeeper85

No problem guys. Sorry i don't have any pics... but i'm happy to answer and questions you can throw at me. If anything else comes up, feel free to PM me for some help. and once again, good luck

James76

Well i just spent 4 freaking hours putting in ONE!!!!!!!! actuator DCX should be shut down for designing such an asinine setup!!!! Honestly if i was doing this every day id have to have about $150 - $200 a door on these things....else it isnt worth the time! The back should be alot easier. Thanks for the tip about buying them lil holding clips...i thought about not using it but the thought of pulling the panel off again to reinsert the rod if it fell out almost made me throw up! I have so many cuts and nicks on my fingers its hard to type I had a terrible time getting the 2 slide clips back onto the door panel track....should the top one be inserted first or the bottom? I will take pics of the drivers door and the rear door when it gets cooler...just too dam hot out to do anything else this week

sixt7gt350

I'm in the same boat as the original poster.
I'd been waiting and watching for a non-Sahara (I wanted black fenders.) 4-door and when a dealer 50 miles away got a truckload, I pounced 2 weeks ago. Having owned a CJ for 20 years, but not using since I couldn't put 3 kids and a wife in it, I LOVE my 4 door wrangler. (WHOA!!! The defroster actually works!!!!) I traded in my F150 supercab FX4 and will probably only regret it when I go to pick up the drywall to finish my bath remodel. (Anyone have a cheap 5x8 trailer for cheap? Did I say cheap?)
I got the tow package I wanted, but none of them had the power convenience group. It had Sirius, which I wasn't looking for, but Buzzsaw is a great station!

I'm currently waiting on my 4-door kit from ebay to arrive. (front doors have 5-pin actuators that automatically lock/unlock the rest of the doors if locked/unlocked with the key)
I picked up a spare actuator for the rear door at PepBoys, which is the one door that gave me enough fits to decide that I couldn't live without power locks. (Why can't I open the rear door from the inside?!?!?!?)
I have a remote start with keyless entry ouputs that I'll be using to control the whole thing. I'll miss the door keypad on my truck that allowed me to go completely keyless at sports tournaments and the like. PepBoys had a keypad, but it looked cheesy. Fortunately for me, I've spent the past 10+ years as an Engineer and supervisor at an OEM. I've had plenty of occasions to visit our door line, so I'm reasonably familar with how door components assemble and work. I'll try to post pics and step-by-step when I do the deed.

sixt7gt350

I had my driver's door apart, looking for a place to mount the lock actuator. A couple of spots stood out, but I really hate to drill holes in my door!! I was disappointed (i.e. I didn't have prior experience. -Not a quality disappointment.) with the plastic door module. Our doors have solid metal inner panels that everything bolts up to. So much for experience going in.

EDIT: It was much easier to release the glass clips on the rear door. Ignore the nonsense about removing the track from the plastic door module. I'm now active for tailgate and RR door. (spliced tailgate into RR door connectors) I mounted the tailgate actuator to the latch and the RR door to the latch bracket. The motor of the actuator adds a little resistance to the rear door inside lock, but not enough to be a big deal.

mrscootrocka

Let me know what connector you came up with...

Toro34

can you please post a pic/partnumber for the ccconnectors you used? From rdio shack?

TheTerminator

I just finished installing power locks this weekend. Works great and now I can use my alarm as keyless entry! As for connectors it doesn't matter what connector you use, as long as it works and gives you at least 2 pins per door. I used a couple spare power connectors that are found in your typical PC. They are really flimsy, and if you have something better, then I recommend you use that. You'll be running 2 new wires for each power lock, and this is why you need 2 pins. One side of the connector will connect to the 2 new wires from the power lock, and the other side of connector will have 2 wires from the switch (or more precisely from the 2 relays you need to wire).