2013 JKU Sport Parasitic Drain - Dead battery every morning
01-15-2014, 11:32 AM
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
2013 JKU Sport Parasitic Drain - Dead battery every morning
Hi all. First post so bear with me.
My 2013 JKU Sport has been having issues with parasitic draw. The battery will not have enough CCA in the morning to turn over (negative temps up here in MN don't help). The only way to ensure it runs every morning is to disconnect the battery after driving it.
I have tried the following to identify the culprit:
I have no aftermarket electronics like a winch or lights, and no under-hood light. uConnect 130. All interior lights seem to turn off when the key is removed and doors are closed. The 0.15 amp draw across the fuse box seems ok????? I tested each fuse and all of the draw seems to be coming from fuses that I expect ignition-off draw from. M10, M13, and J13.
Seems like I have parasitic draw from an area not measurable from the fuse box. The next easiest test would be drawdown from a faulty alternator diode, but after that I am unsure how to find this gremlin. Any ideas on other components that could be causing this issue? Anyone had something similar happen?
I have a date with the "local" dealer next week, but it's my DD, so I'd like to help them identify the issue so it's not a long repair. Thanks!
My 2013 JKU Sport has been having issues with parasitic draw. The battery will not have enough CCA in the morning to turn over (negative temps up here in MN don't help). The only way to ensure it runs every morning is to disconnect the battery after driving it.
I have tried the following to identify the culprit:
- Had the battery tested
- Had the alterator tested
- Tested ignition-off draw through the fuse box (0.15 Amps after leaving it sit for 30+ mins off)
- Installed a new battery
I have no aftermarket electronics like a winch or lights, and no under-hood light. uConnect 130. All interior lights seem to turn off when the key is removed and doors are closed. The 0.15 amp draw across the fuse box seems ok????? I tested each fuse and all of the draw seems to be coming from fuses that I expect ignition-off draw from. M10, M13, and J13.
Seems like I have parasitic draw from an area not measurable from the fuse box. The next easiest test would be drawdown from a faulty alternator diode, but after that I am unsure how to find this gremlin. Any ideas on other components that could be causing this issue? Anyone had something similar happen?
I have a date with the "local" dealer next week, but it's my DD, so I'd like to help them identify the issue so it's not a long repair. Thanks!
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Teardrop (12-23-2019)
01-15-2014, 05:00 PM
#2
JK Freak
I replaced my battery prematurely and all I had to do is bump the darn parking shifter forward. I was so pissed when it happened to my new battery.
PS: By the way I don't let anybody work on mine
PS: By the way I don't let anybody work on mine
01-21-2014, 03:13 AM
#3
JK Enthusiast
I would remove the (+) battery cable, put the meter between the cable & the post so that it's in line of the 2. Then when the draw settles to the .15 amp, then start removing fuses one at a time. You should run across a fuse that will cause the draw to drop when it's removed. If you're thinking there is a draw from the alternator, disconnect it to see if the draw goes away.
If you do find that a removed fuse causes the draw to drop, then you need to look at some schematics to see what all is connected to that fuse then disconnect each module / item that is connected to the fuse one at a time. This should lead you to the defective part.
If you do find that a removed fuse causes the draw to drop, then you need to look at some schematics to see what all is connected to that fuse then disconnect each module / item that is connected to the fuse one at a time. This should lead you to the defective part.
Hi all. First post so bear with me.
My 2013 JKU Sport has been having issues with parasitic draw. The battery will not have enough CCA in the morning to turn over (negative temps up here in MN don't help). The only way to ensure it runs every morning is to disconnect the battery after driving it.
I have tried the following to identify the culprit:
I have no aftermarket electronics like a winch or lights, and no under-hood light. uConnect 130. All interior lights seem to turn off when the key is removed and doors are closed. The 0.15 amp draw across the fuse box seems ok????? I tested each fuse and all of the draw seems to be coming from fuses that I expect ignition-off draw from. M10, M13, and J13.
Seems like I have parasitic draw from an area not measurable from the fuse box. The next easiest test would be drawdown from a faulty alternator diode, but after that I am unsure how to find this gremlin. Any ideas on other components that could be causing this issue? Anyone had something similar happen?
I have a date with the "local" dealer next week, but it's my DD, so I'd like to help them identify the issue so it's not a long repair. Thanks!
My 2013 JKU Sport has been having issues with parasitic draw. The battery will not have enough CCA in the morning to turn over (negative temps up here in MN don't help). The only way to ensure it runs every morning is to disconnect the battery after driving it.
I have tried the following to identify the culprit:
- Had the battery tested
- Had the alterator tested
- Tested ignition-off draw through the fuse box (0.15 Amps after leaving it sit for 30+ mins off)
- Installed a new battery
I have no aftermarket electronics like a winch or lights, and no under-hood light. uConnect 130. All interior lights seem to turn off when the key is removed and doors are closed. The 0.15 amp draw across the fuse box seems ok????? I tested each fuse and all of the draw seems to be coming from fuses that I expect ignition-off draw from. M10, M13, and J13.
Seems like I have parasitic draw from an area not measurable from the fuse box. The next easiest test would be drawdown from a faulty alternator diode, but after that I am unsure how to find this gremlin. Any ideas on other components that could be causing this issue? Anyone had something similar happen?
I have a date with the "local" dealer next week, but it's my DD, so I'd like to help them identify the issue so it's not a long repair. Thanks!
01-21-2014, 04:44 AM
#4
fuses
I was also going to suggest the one fuse at a time method... find the one that changes something and on that circuit you will find the problem.
also, it's a 2013. just take it back to the dealer!
Lemon law specifically states a condition that makes it un-driveable. Sounds like your Jeep doesn't work under it's own power.
you bought it new enough, or new, so they have to fix it. they also get 3 tries, if you keep having this issue, it would be a new jeep.
Lemon Law only applies to a vehicle YOU bought new, and is under 1 year old.
also, it's a 2013. just take it back to the dealer!
Lemon law specifically states a condition that makes it un-driveable. Sounds like your Jeep doesn't work under it's own power.
you bought it new enough, or new, so they have to fix it. they also get 3 tries, if you keep having this issue, it would be a new jeep.
Lemon Law only applies to a vehicle YOU bought new, and is under 1 year old.
04-30-2023, 03:47 PM
#6
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2021
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I have had my jeep for about 2 years now. Now, out of the blue my battery dies. No lights, no nothing. I tried the light meter test, pulling each fuse until the light goes out. It went out when I pulled the IOD fuse. Now everything I have found said something to the effect of "...attach the multi meter to the system and pull all the fuses in the IOD circuit".
Do I just plug the IOD fuse back in and keep pulling fuses? I couldn't find a lot of information on the IOD circuit. I know this is a long dead thread but any help would be great.
Do I just plug the IOD fuse back in and keep pulling fuses? I couldn't find a lot of information on the IOD circuit. I know this is a long dead thread but any help would be great.
