2011 Stock Stereo
#21
Under the steering wheel, take that pannel off. It just pulls off. Be gentle. Start with the small strips on the top on either side of the wheel. Under that, there are 2 bolts to take off (same size/shape as the one you found). Then, pry out the window controls, the 4th and final bolt is in there. Once all 4 are out, it just pulls off.
#22
There is another thread on here that i used. Heres my picture-less description:
Under the steering wheel, take that pannel off. It just pulls off. Be gentle. Start with the small strips on the top on either side of the wheel. Under that, there are 2 bolts to take off (same size/shape as the one you found). Then, pry out the window controls, the 4th and final bolt is in there. Once all 4 are out, it just pulls off.
Under the steering wheel, take that pannel off. It just pulls off. Be gentle. Start with the small strips on the top on either side of the wheel. Under that, there are 2 bolts to take off (same size/shape as the one you found). Then, pry out the window controls, the 4th and final bolt is in there. Once all 4 are out, it just pulls off.
#23
Okay thanks, I'll try that later. Have you taken any air vents out? I have read that the 2011 ones don't just twist off and I found a thread on here showing a diagram but I can't figure out how to do it. FYI I am wanting to take vent off to pop out the side of the dash by the door to access the hole through the firewall.
#24
I dont think you have to pull the air vents out to do what you are trying (i ran my power wire thru the same spot you are talking about). The dash is set up different on the 11 than the 08-10. The entire peice that surrounds your guages and the peice that surrounds your stereo is all once piece. Once you take those 4 bolts off, the whole peice pulls off as one. Giving you access to the stereo bracket and your gauge cluster. The vents come off with it.
#25
So in the engine bay, on the top of the fire wall, driver side. There is a rubber stopper. If you have a hard top (like i do), this is where the washer fluid for the rear window runs. I poked an extra hole in that and ran my power wire thru. I just fed a bunch of wire thru, then i was able to reach from under the dash (like where my pedals are). I just reached up and found the wire, pulled it down. easy peasy.
#26
So in the engine bay, on the top of the fire wall, driver side. There is a rubber stopper. If you have a hard top (like i do), this is where the washer fluid for the rear window runs. I poked an extra hole in that and ran my power wire thru. I just fed a bunch of wire thru, then i was able to reach from under the dash (like where my pedals are). I just reached up and found the wire, pulled it down. easy peasy.
#27
There is a write up on how to take the dash apart for a 2011JK in the write up section...
#28
#29
So i took my dash apart again today. Using the link, i found whats what on the back of the radio. Unfortunatly, there is no pre-amp outputs to wire my amp to. But i did find that the first time i wired it up, i switched one of the + and - wires. After fixing that, it sounds pretty good (MUCH better than before), even using an amplified signal to my amp. So id say to anyone else, splicing into the rear speaker wires isnt a bad way to go.
#30
So i took my dash apart again today. Using the link, i found whats what on the back of the radio. Unfortunatly, there is no pre-amp outputs to wire my amp to. But i did find that the first time i wired it up, i switched one of the + and - wires. After fixing that, it sounds pretty good (MUCH better than before), even using an amplified signal to my amp. So id say to anyone else, splicing into the rear speaker wires isnt a bad way to go.