Gun safe shopping
#11
JK Freak
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Rockwall Texas
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I bought a fire proof safe from a safe from a local safe company 1,800 lbs., took out the metal shelves that were in it and built my own interior. It cost me a $1,000. for the safe holds 22 rifles and 16 pistols.
#12
JK Enthusiast
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Thanks for all the input!
Love the fort nox and sturdy but at my price I can't justify the cost. Dont own any high dollar guns. I will end up spending close to 2000 which is way more then my initial budget. At my price range I have noticed the name brand safes are around the same size for what you get.
Keep the ideas coming, I really don't know anyone with a safe so the input is nice.
Love the fort nox and sturdy but at my price I can't justify the cost. Dont own any high dollar guns. I will end up spending close to 2000 which is way more then my initial budget. At my price range I have noticed the name brand safes are around the same size for what you get.
Keep the ideas coming, I really don't know anyone with a safe so the input is nice.
#13
JK Enthusiast
Thanks for all the input!
Love the fort nox and sturdy but at my price I can't justify the cost. Dont own any high dollar guns. I will end up spending close to 2000 which is way more then my initial budget. At my price range I have noticed the name brand safes are around the same size for what you get.
Keep the ideas coming, I really don't know anyone with a safe so the input is nice.
Love the fort nox and sturdy but at my price I can't justify the cost. Dont own any high dollar guns. I will end up spending close to 2000 which is way more then my initial budget. At my price range I have noticed the name brand safes are around the same size for what you get.
Keep the ideas coming, I really don't know anyone with a safe so the input is nice.
Unless you're up against Ocean's 11, the cabinets such as the Stack-On line will keep anyone out foolish enough to try.
They are much thicker than a filing cabinet, with near plate thickness. Check out Gander Mountain online.
#14
I was looking for a LONG time and ended up with a cannon wide body from Costco. It was on sale for 699 with free shipping. It is big enough for me and weighs a ton. I suggest keeping and eye on their site and ordering on from there. . Oh and mine weighs around 750# it is a beast.
#15
Lowes has some safes too. I have not looked at them too closely, but they looked ok. Make sure you get a fire proof, you won't regret it should something go wrong. Don't pay extra for lighting kits, you can make your own using rope light you can find near Christmas decorations.
#16
Originally Posted by Xodius
I was looking for a LONG time and ended up with a cannon wide body from Costco. It was on sale for 699 with free shipping. It is big enough for me and weighs a ton. I suggest keeping and eye on their site and ordering on from there. . Oh and mine weighs around 750# it is a beast.
#17
I underestimated the weight of it but still got it upstairs. Had to weld up a deadman but it worked. Only took about 2 hours to get it up 25 stairs lol. I actually wished my stairs lined up with a window, then I would have run my winch line threw it and done it that way. Oh well it is locked and loaded now.
#18
JK Enthusiast
PS - the cabinets bolt to the floor and wall from inside. Primarily, their weakness is the keyed paddle style lock system, versus a pin system. However, it would take quite a while to wedge a tool and pry the door open enough to get a bar inside to attempt flaring the paddle. Really, I can't see anyone opening the door without having a half hour or more to work on it. With it bolted to the floor and wall, its permanently stationary.
#20
No one's brought this up but 1 other minor thing to think about _after_ you're pretty sure which safe you want to get.
If your safe will be somewhere damp -- basement, garage or even inside your house in some locales -- you need to deal with humidity inside the safe (& even condensation when there are quick temperature changes).
The 2 usual ways to do this are either a moisture absorber that you swap out periodically or a low-wattage bulb turned on inside the safe all the time.
Examples of the former are the Eva-Dry 500. May last a month or more inside an infrequently opened safe (YMMV) between "recharging" then use the built in AC plug to dry it out again (10-15 hrs depending on ambient humidity).
For the light bulb approach, almost all manufacturers can provide a hole for AC cord in non-fire safes & some will also offer for their fire safes. The hole is only big enough for the cord -- you wire it up afterwards. DO PLAN AHEAD -- you don't want to be moving the beast after installation so you can get back there to run a cord.
HTH!
If your safe will be somewhere damp -- basement, garage or even inside your house in some locales -- you need to deal with humidity inside the safe (& even condensation when there are quick temperature changes).
The 2 usual ways to do this are either a moisture absorber that you swap out periodically or a low-wattage bulb turned on inside the safe all the time.
Examples of the former are the Eva-Dry 500. May last a month or more inside an infrequently opened safe (YMMV) between "recharging" then use the built in AC plug to dry it out again (10-15 hrs depending on ambient humidity).
For the light bulb approach, almost all manufacturers can provide a hole for AC cord in non-fire safes & some will also offer for their fire safes. The hole is only big enough for the cord -- you wire it up afterwards. DO PLAN AHEAD -- you don't want to be moving the beast after installation so you can get back there to run a cord.
HTH!