Long Island, NY
11-05-2009, 07:25 AM
#2652
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: suffolk,ny
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PM sent about the AEV pro-cal.
I'll take it if it isn't spoken for already.
I can meet you at Bellmore train station tomorrow night cash in hand,
or I can send a paypal right now.
Thanks
I'll take it if it isn't spoken for already.
I can meet you at Bellmore train station tomorrow night cash in hand,
or I can send a paypal right now.
Thanks
11-05-2009, 07:28 AM
#2653
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,944
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joey i cant speak for the superchips, but the AEV procal has been worth every penny. When i first got the 35s and didnt have it callibrated the jeep was so slow it felt like something was wrong. Then i did the procal and it felt like it was back to stock "power". The AEV fixes the speedometer and the shift points of the transmission. i was also able to shut off the tpms sensor which was awesome. you can also play around with daytime running lights and stuff and can increase your rpms for winching.
11-05-2009, 05:59 PM
#2654
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
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I'm going to Evan's shop to help him organize everything. He said with spending time there, it can be used in 2 weeks. So, 2 more weeks.
As far as the lighting, mounted them to the frame up front (frame rails have some holes already in them). In the rear, there are a couple studs that stick out from the bottom of the cubby hole (I have my muffler relocated). Used nuts on those studs. Good to go.
I have all my switches mounted in the Daystar switch panel (made for the area in front of the shifter, but since I have the NSG370, gears 1, 3, and 5 hit the switches. So a long time ago I cut a nice hole in the plastic above the window and cut the Daystar panel to recess the switches there. Looks factory.
As far as the lighting, mounted them to the frame up front (frame rails have some holes already in them). In the rear, there are a couple studs that stick out from the bottom of the cubby hole (I have my muffler relocated). Used nuts on those studs. Good to go.
I have all my switches mounted in the Daystar switch panel (made for the area in front of the shifter, but since I have the NSG370, gears 1, 3, and 5 hit the switches. So a long time ago I cut a nice hole in the plastic above the window and cut the Daystar panel to recess the switches there. Looks factory.
11-05-2009, 06:40 PM
#2655
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,016
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I'm going to Evan's shop to help him organize everything. He said with spending time there, it can be used in 2 weeks. So, 2 more weeks.
As far as the lighting, mounted them to the frame up front (frame rails have some holes already in them). In the rear, there are a couple studs that stick out from the bottom of the cubby hole (I have my muffler relocated). Used nuts on those studs. Good to go.
I have all my switches mounted in the Daystar switch panel (made for the area in front of the shifter, but since I have the NSG370, gears 1, 3, and 5 hit the switches. So a long time ago I cut a nice hole in the plastic above the window and cut the Daystar panel to recess the switches there. Looks factory.
As far as the lighting, mounted them to the frame up front (frame rails have some holes already in them). In the rear, there are a couple studs that stick out from the bottom of the cubby hole (I have my muffler relocated). Used nuts on those studs. Good to go.
I have all my switches mounted in the Daystar switch panel (made for the area in front of the shifter, but since I have the NSG370, gears 1, 3, and 5 hit the switches. So a long time ago I cut a nice hole in the plastic above the window and cut the Daystar panel to recess the switches there. Looks factory.
I also need 2 weeks to be over already... I got a bouns at work for last quater today
so that should help pay for some of this lift kit instal...
11-05-2009, 06:44 PM
#2656
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,319
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Come by one the Long Island Off Road meetings and you can see it. 
Does anyone need, or of anyone who needs, 4 Spidertrax wheel spacers. $100 for all 4. One of the members of LIOR is selling his. Let me know.
Does anyone need, or of anyone who needs, 4 Spidertrax wheel spacers. $100 for all 4. One of the members of LIOR is selling his. Let me know.
11-05-2009, 06:48 PM
#2657
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
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And BTW, TeraFlex 9550 shocks ride GREAT! Remove my tired front shocks with TF extensions for TF 9550s...all I can say is night and day. I'm pretty sure the AEV's kit pays for itself. But if someone is looking for good replacements for their TF BB, or any BB fr that matter, might want to check out the 9550s.
Need to get to Evan to cycle the suspension on his lift, then check the clearances...again...
Need to get to Evan to cycle the suspension on his lift, then check the clearances...again...
11-06-2009, 03:11 AM
#2658
JK Junkie
11-06-2009, 03:54 AM
#2659
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
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Depends on what winch you're going with and what type of cable (steel or synthetic). My Superwinch EPi9.0 is absolutely great (think you should consider this winch, comparable to Warn at a fraction of the cost). I bought it with the steel cable, steel cable frayed and snapped, and went to Viking synthetic with the safety thimble and ORO X-Line hawse fairlead. The winch, when it had the steel cable, weighed in at a hefty 110lbs. With the synthetic, it only weighs 75lbs. There's a lot of weight to be saved if you went to a synthetic line. My front sagged approx. 1/2"-3/4" with the winch. Have had about 2 dozen pulls in the last year that I've had the winch, not one issue. Pulled a Range Rover with a broken front axle uphill about 500 yards in about 4 pulls, never once did it go into thermal overload, it did pull my JK while pulling his Range about 3 of those 4 pulls and kept on going.