seal20

PICS ADDED!

Here's my set up and how it panned out. I have the TF BB HD springs up front (the bronze colored ones) OME 618 in the rear, TF 9550 shocks all the way around.

PART 1) END LINKS: Now when I spoke with Mel he let me know that I needed shorter rear sway bar end links. What ended up working for me is taking the TF links that come with the BB and installing them up front and taking the stock rears and putting them back in the rear. This seems good so far since the TF HD springs netted me over 3" of lift up front the sway bar is now just slightly angled toward the top of the Jeep which how I believe it came stock. Also, the stock rear links had to be flipped with the ball joint facing downward and the bushing on the sway bar itself to clear the EVO bracket perfectly. Once I flex the set up out I will determine if I need to grab some of EVOs nice custom end links, but for now the way I have it set up seems pretty well dialed in. This should work with any 2.5"-4" lift.

PART 2) SHOCKS: Well, from the limited amount of info available here and from EVO (no fault of theirs there's just too many variables) I bought a set of OME shocks since they are shorter than stock when compressed I figured this would be a great way to improve the ride without compromising articulation. Well, after speaking with Mel and telling him my plans he convinced me to stick with the TF shocks that are longer as long as when I cycle the suspension they don't bottom out, which he said rarely happens. With the TF shocks I am going to have some CRAZY articulation in the rear with the new relocation. Also, the OME shocks don't work with the new hardware supplied with the EVO skids.

PART 3) CUTTING & GRINDING: Here's the FUN part! It took a bit of nerve but I finally sacked up and did it...CUT into the brackets of my Dana 44 The first side took me about 30 min. to cut everything correctly. This was taking my time to examine where the blade of the sawzall would be penetrating while taking care not to nick my brake assembley or the lower control arm. Per EVOs instructions they state to remove the entire rear caliper assembley, which I did not do since I was just extra careful with the saw. I did however, remove the rear ABS connector, it's the only fragile component I was concerned about and it's a little tricky to take off too. So, here's a tip; pull out the red tab on the connector with a flat head screw driver and then you need to push down the black retainer clip while pulling on the connector, it should pull right off once you master that little dance. I broke the first black connector since I didn't know I had to push the retainer clip down AND pull, I just pulled! After measuring and marking the lower shock mount per EVOs instructions. I found starting with the end link mount tab first with the sawzall (make sure you have a good blade, I used Milwaukee Metal 3/16"-1/4" Bi-Metal 14T it cut through like butter oh and get a 5 pack I went through 2 blades the first time) cut it completely off, then over to whichever side of the shock mount you feel is in the way first. I removed the entire lower shock mount and then made my complete horizontal cut around the shock/ control are "cup". There's no rhyme or reason to this if you are doing it in a garage like I did. Just whatever semi-comfortable position you can get in to make the angle cut you need. After the cutting is complete take a deep breath and admire! I used a grinder to clean up some of the old shock mount weld and the bottom cut, the end link weld is the thickest and EVO designed the bracket with that in mind, since there's a void in the bracket to compensate for that weld if it's not ground completely flush. Now, remove the lower control are completely at this point (only one side at a time PLEASE) Another tip, on both sides I had to cut another 1/2"-3/4" of the front of the control arm bracket to get the skid to fit properly since it ramps up toward the control arm so as not to get hung up and slide over obstacles (good design). After all the cutting grinding, test fit the new skit with the control arm bolt in the bracket to make sure everything lines up. Shoot it with some krylon and mount it up! Tip #3 The lower skid mount bolt need to go from the inside of the bracket out to clear the lower control arm. The top bolt goes from the outside if the bracket to the inside. You can now remount the lower control arm, make sure to mount the new slider side first since you can no longer just slide the control arm into place from below the bracket since it's a slider now! Then, mount the frame side. Button everything back up check all your clearances and BAM!!! YOU ARE NOW A ROCK STAR!

All in all the clearance I gained coupled with the added articulation I'm getting by relocating the shock up is well worth the $125!!! Those rear shock mounts are where they would be if I was running 35" tires..

Here's the front end links:



Rear end links:





Different angle:



How it looks from a couple steps back...smooooth

Dr.McNinja

Pictures?





10 characters

seal20

Fisrt line of the write up, it's only been 20 minutes!!!

I'll shoot a few when I install my rear adj. control arms later today they're on the Fed Ex truck to be delived NOW, which by the way, are Daystars. So, we'll see how that turns out. I know there's been a lot of people asking about the quality of the Daystar pieces.

seal20

Just added pics of the nice clean new set up!!!!

Dr.McNinja

Looks real nice. Hopefully they work as promised and you stay un-hung.

seal20

Thank you!

First freeway test run was phenomenal!!!! The rear set up of OME 618 Springs/TF 9550 Shocks/EVO Rock Stars is dialed in!